Conch ceviche, hummus, and salsa to top mini-dumplins.
Succulent crab cakes.
Curried vegetable dumplins make a very satisfying lunch. - Contributed Photos
Pesto pasta with shrimp.
Known as Dumplin for lunch, the space becomes the Teahouse by night.
Carolyn Chin Yee's heavenly cupcakes.
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The ongoing renaissance of Hope Gardens and Hope Zoo is bringing back one of the capital's treasures to its former glory.On a recent foodie trek, Vibes [color:f936=blue !important][color:f936=blue !important]Cuisine discovered that the park's [color:f936=blue !important][color:f936=blue !important]restaurant has been re-energised by chef/caterer and creative soul, Julius Chin Yee. It has also returned to its original name: Teahouse.
We recently took Chin Yee up on his invitation, sampled his menu, and learnt more about his unique vision for this premium space.
The gardens were being thoroughly enjoyed by school and church groups on our visit. But as we stepped into the dining room - with country comfy chairs, lush greenery and trickling waterfall - the unbridled enthusiasm of the children vanished into the background as a zen-like relaxation descended upon us, courtesy of the natural ambience.
Photographs by Maria LaYacona printed on huge canvases, capturing iconic Jamaican nature scenes - Bamboo Avenue, the zoo's flamingos, Hope Gardens and others - appropriate for this open-air setting.
There are dual concepts when it comes to the day and evening menus. 'Dumplin' is for lunch - serving up affordable options, as our hosts says, "with our flavourings, Jamaican style". There's curried wraps, roasted chicken, daily soups or gourmet burgers - lots to appeal to park visitors, or the folks at nearby universities and offices. The marquee 'dumplins' is a play on Trinidadian doubles, although here, you break into them and stuff them yourself with choices of curried chicken or go veggie with channa (curried chickpeas) and potato. A 'tups' of coleslaw completes the dish. Each $350 order boasts three of the large, hollow fried balls heaped with toppings guaranteeing a bellyful.
DELICIOUS IDEA
Chin Yee would love to see multiple kiosks selling this economical street food and, with full mouths, we concur it's a delicious idea.
In case you want a little more heat with your meal, Rass hot pepper purée is available. This cottage industry product is also available for sale. Wine is available, but for a corkage fee, you can bring your own.
We also sampled mini-dumplins, alternating dollops of hummus, tomato salsa and conch ceviche. Rosemary flatbread help to sop up the condiments when we 'gravaliciously' consumed our dumplins. No worries, as these 'pickings', as the appetisers are called, segue us into the Teahouse menu choices.
Chef Andrew Blair presented a platter of hot, crisp mini-cakes full of juicy seasoned crabmeat. Cheese and callaloo spring rolls quickly follow as Chin Yee explains that the revitalised Teahouse is not a typical restaurant.
Serving Hope Garden's visitors daily for lunch from 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Teahouse dinner service is extra special. In fact, it is by reservations only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights as the entrepreneur's vision is to offer a customised casual [color:f936=blue !important][color:f936=blue !important]dining [color:f936=blue !important]experience in the expansive environment cooled by the evening breeze.
Those in the know have been noshing fabulously with sublime privacy since [color:f936=blue !important][color:f936=blue !important]the [color:f936=blue !important]restaurant's soft launch last December. Hope Gardens is "so beautiful at night. That's where my patrons come in," the music manager-turned-executive chef shares. "My concept is that the Teahouse is geared for parties. I just want people to get together, to come as they like and enjoy great food."
He continued: "The reservation is really for you, not for me. I ask if there's anything special you want."
His epicurean repertoire can go off menu to roast suckling pig, lamb - whatever you desire. The menu's main feature is whole Port Royal fish, deep fried with choice of sweet and sour or escoveitch sauces. You may also choose
Caribbean lobster tails grilled with garlic and herb sauce, or you can enjoy your lobster as part of the seafood platter.
There is the bumbo jumbo deep-fried shrimps, rasta pasta with pesto sauce, or yabba of pasta with choice of protein. Food is presented family-style, like the whole grilled, free-range chicken, which encourages sharing plates.
The Teahouse experience versus a regular restaurant is like comparing an all-inclusive hotel to a villa. The pleasure is all in the little details - pleasant personalised service and delectable dining. Chin Yee aims to make Teahouse that place you go to to celebrate and reconnect with visiting family and friends. Although he's not rushing to advertise, this less-kept secret is spreading almost like wild fire, via word of mouth.
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